a noodle by any other name

Category: Grub Garage

Post 1 by TexasRed (I'll have the last word, thank you!) on Saturday, 30-Apr-2005 22:01:34

A Noodle by Any Other Name

IMAGE by Mark R. Vogel
Epicure1@optonline.net

The terms pasta, macaroni and noodles are often used interchangeably. But
they are not the same thing. Who would think that such a simple dish could be
so complicated? OK, I can't resist saying it. It's time to use your noodle.

Pasta is the general term for the wheat product derived from combining
semolina flour with liquid, usually water and/or eggs. Use water and you
have macaroni,
use eggs and you have noodles. Semolina flour, made from durum wheat, is
the flour of choice because of its high protein content. This provides the
pasta
with structure so it will maintain its integrity during fabrication and
cooking. It is resistant to water absorption, which renders it ideal for
cooking
pasta al dente, an Italian phrase translated as "to the tooth." It means
that the finished pasta will have some resistance to the bite and not be overly
soft. Oh, and by the way, Marco Polo did not introduce pasta to Italy.
Historical evidence reveals that pasta was being made in Italy in the 11th
century,
200 years before Marco Polo. The earliest known evidence of pasta
production goes back to about 1000 B.C. in central Asia.

Pasta is available in fresh and dried forms. While the dried, if left in a
cool, dark place can last indefinitely; fresh pasta must be refrigerated and
used within a few days. Fresh pasta also cooks much quicker than its dried
counterpart. Some folks add oil to the pasta water, believing that it will
prevent
the pasta from sticking. This is an absolute waste of time. Oil and water
are chemically incompatible. The oil floats to the surface, thus preventing any
mingling with the pasta. Neither does salt prevent sticking. Salt is added
to the water to season the pasta. What prevents sticking is placing the pasta
in already boiling water, not overcrowding the pot, and stirring,
particularly at the early stages of cooking.

Lastly, there is no reason to rinse your pasta after cooking. People who
practice this usually harbor irrational beliefs about "starch." Starch is
nothing
more than carbohydrates. Carbohydrates are not evil and rinsing the pasta
will reduce them only minimally. Most of the carbohydrate is in the pasta.
Simply
draining it removes most of whatever carbohydrate has leeched out during
cooking. Rinsing only serves to un-season your pasta.

There are countless shapes and sizes of pasta and even more sauces that can
accompany it. Here are two recipes, one of which is bound to appeal to you.
One is low in fat while the second is more decadent.

PASTA PROVENCAL

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 batch scallions, green and white parts chopped
1 yellow squash, chopped into a medium dice
4 cloves garlic, chopped
2 large button mushrooms, chopped
4 plum tomatoes, chopped
1 can tomato paste
2 cans or 28 ounces low-fat chicken broth
basil and parsley, chopped, to taste
salt and pepper to taste
1 lb angel hair pasta

Heat the oil in a large saucepan and add the scallions and mushrooms. Sauté
for a few minutes and then add the squash. As soon as it softens add the garlic
and sauté one or to minutes more. Add chicken broth, tomatoes and half of
the tomato paste. Bring to a boil and then simmer uncovered for 15 minutes. You
may not need all the paste. This sauce is supposed to be light so check the
consistency as it's simmering, adding more paste if necessary. Add the herbs
one minute before the sauce is done cooking. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Since this is a light sauce, a delicate pasta like angel hair is best. Serve
with grated Parmesan cheese.

PASTA WITH SAUSAGE & SPINACH CREAM SAUCE

1 lb of Hot Italian hot sausage.
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped.
4 garlic cloves, chopped.
1 quart chicken stock or canned broth
1 10 oz. package of frozen spinach, drained of all water
1 cup heavy cream.
1/2 cup chopped parsley.
Salt and white pepper to taste
1 lb rigatoni.

Remove the casing from the sausage and pulse it in a food processor until
just ground. Sauté the sausage and onion in the oil, until the onions are soft
but not browned. Stir and mash the sausage with a wooden spoon as it sautés
to ensure it remains crumbled. Add garlic about a minute or two before the
sautéing is done. Add chicken stock and spinach. Bring to a boil and then
simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Add the cream, bring to a boil and simmer
for a few minutes. Add parsley and salt and pepper to taste at end. Serve
with grated Parmesan cheese.

About the Author:
Mark R. Vogel
received his doctorate in clinical psychology from Yeshiva University and
his culinary arts degree from the Institute of Culinary Education, both in New
York City. Although he still practices psychology, his deepest passion
remains cooking at an Italian/Mediterranean restaurant in NJ and writing
about food
and wine. His column "Food For Thought" is published in a number of NY, NJ
and PA newspapers and food related websites.